Batchellerville
resident Wellington E. Gordon recounts, with much detail,
a 13 day foray in the foothills in 1887.
Among
the members of this hunting party were: Charles Batcheller
Wallingford, Vermont, F.F. Noyes Bellport, Long Island,
George Robinson of Ilion NY, and from Athens NY W. M.
Whitney and the Rev W.B. Hill. Also hunting guides Burr
and Chet Sturges of Lake Pleasant.
This journal, in it’s entirety, captures the essence in which the spirit
of men are tried and the true gifts of nature are appreciated.
June
30th 1887 Wednesday : I walked to the village this morning
where it was agreed we’d meet preparatory to starting
for the woods. We had made arrangements with Trum Lyon
(owner of the Lyon House in Northville) to come get us
from Batchellerville and take us to Lake Pleasant. We
all gathered at the Whitneys .With luggage all packed,
there wasn’t enough room for everyone to ride so
Trum hired another wagon to carry Mr. Hill and myself
to Northville where a change would be made for a larger
wagon. Going up Sand Hill one of Trums horses balked
and Trum got mad which caused the horse to thrash around
and break a wiffle tree (A wiffle tree is made of wood
and provides the two main points of contact between the
horse and the wagon) . This delayed us for some time
but we were able to borrow an old set from a farmer.
We
resumed our journey to Northville and arrived about 10
AM. Meeting the incoming train (FJ&G) we met Mr.
Noyes Brother-in-Law, George Robinson of Ilion NY, who
was expected to join the party. After reloading our things
into a larger wagon we started for Lake Pleasant with
Walter Swears as the driver. We had not gone very far
when it became evident that one of the wagon wheels was
weak. We got out and with jack knives cut some sticks
and bound them to the wheel with withes ( other flexible
sticks) in such a way as to make it absolutely safe.
We
intended to take a late dinner at Samp Hosleys (in Wells)
and we did as it was nearly 4 PM when we arrived there,
dinner was waiting it was dispatched quickly, and the
journey to the Lake Pleasant resumed. Without any mishaps
we arrived at about 8PM. Our guide Chet Sturges, was
waiting to receive us and give any necessary assistance
to provide for an early start the next morning.
July
1st Friday: And early breakfast at Lake Pleasant House
is always I/2 hour to 1 hour later than later than ordered.
That plus other little delays, it was 7:30 am before
we started for camp. After consulting with the guides
, Chet and Burr Sturges, we concluded to camp on Pillsbury
Lake instead of Cedar Lake as planned. The are more convenient
places to fish and game in abundance is to be found.
Packing our things into Dave Sturges lumber wagon and
putting on top of all, a wood shod sled with a wagon,
we started for our 12 mile tramp through the woods.
The
usual terminus of the wagon going is at a place called
Sled Harbor. But our driver took us to Miami Stream;
a creek that flows into Lewey Lake where we camped last
year. We lunched and gave the team a rest before ascending
the mountain. From the Miami to the top of the mountain
where the descent to the Cedar and the Pillsbury commences,
is three miles and the road in places is rough to the
extreme. This road was originally cut through from Lake
Pleasant to Ogdensburg four rods (a rod is 16 ½ feet)
wide cleared in 1812 and was to be used if necessary
by marching troops. It was known as the State Road and
is marked with mile posts to Cedar. From there it had
been allowed to grow up and no one but an experienced
woodsman can trace it.
The
Miami, where we lunched, is just 8 miles from Lake Pleasant.
At the 8 mile post we descended to Pillsbury in a distance
of 1 1/2 mile. Before we reached the lake it was necessary
to descend a very steep rocky hill. Here the sled broke
down and we were compelled to unload our things and mend
it before proceeding further. We were delayed an hour
and reached Pillsbury at about 5 PM.
We
occupied a camp built by a Frenchman known as French
Louie who lives 6 miles father near the head of West
Canada Creek. He used this camp as sort of a halfway
house on his trips to the lake for supplies. This camp
is double having a fireplace in the center and would
do very well as a winter protection, but as a summer
camp to correspond with our ideas, it is a failure. It’s
location is about fifty rods from the lake on low ground;
the shade has been cut away near it, and no pains have
been taken to keep the surrounding area clean. We were
disappointed both in the appearance of the lake, the
camp, and it’s surroundings. But like good campers
we took the matter philosophically and after supper prepared
by the guides and made palatable by the long tramp just
taken we turned in for the night.
July 2nd Saturday: Early this morning Noyes and Burr turned out in search of ‘beef’ but
came home empty -handed, not to say heavy hearted. Whitney and Chet took a
trip over to Whitney Lake, a small but beautiful sheet of water a mile from
the lower end of Pillsbury. They caught a few nice trout and returning by a
pond shot at a deer, but did not hit it. So they came home disappointed.
Hill
and Robinson fished near the boat landing and caught
quite a number of brook trout. I lay around camp during
the forenoon and in the afternoon being more dissatisfied
with our location Noyes and I went to the lower part
of the lake to explore. The upper end of the lake is
very shallow, making it difficult to navigate with a
loaded boat. The lower end, however, is deeper and clear
from lily pads and the western shore is quite abrupt.
Noyes and I explored here for some distance and at last
discovered water that seemed enough for camp use; and
nearby, close upon a cliff of rocks. A beautiful spot
for a camp. On our return to camp we reported our discovery
and all decided that early Monday morning we should move
to the spot. In the evening Noyes and Chet went out with
the gun but returned empty handed.
July
3rd Sunday: In the forenoon we all lounged in the shade
and listened to a reading from St. Mark by Rev. Hill.
He explained and talked as he read, making it one of
the most interesting readings I have ever heard. After
dinner we lay in the shade and enjoyed ourselves as best
as we could in such a place. Towards evening, Rev. Hill
read from Chas Dudley stories of the Adirondacks putting
us in good humor for supper and sleep.
July
4th Monday: As early as possible we all started for our
new camping place and all assisted in building of the
camp; the finest in all respects we ever had.
It is located about 50 feet above the lake and faces ledges about 40 feet high.
About 6 rods in back of the camp is a stream which furnishes enough water for
drink and keeping butter etc, but not enough for bathing purposes. From the
camp we cut a winding path down to the lake where we bathed and landed our
boats. At night we were quite tired and turned in early to a refreshing sleep
upon fresh balsam boughs cut and laid by Chet and Burr.
July
5th Tuesday: George Brown of Northville and W. G. Snow
of Montclair N.J. were expected at Lake Pleasant today
to join our party as soon as they could get in, we sent
Burr out to guide them in tomorrow.
Chet,
Rev. Hill, and myself took a 4 mile tramp to a place
called Mud Stream, where it was thought we could get
a good catch of trout if no one had fished there lately.
To get there we had to go up by and cross Whitney Lake
and then follow along the ridge to the outlet of Pillsbury
and Whitney which join their waters in one stream. Then
a short distance across a little ridge to Mud Stream.
This stream together with the one just mentioned, are
the head waters of West Canada Creek.
Mud
stream, where the trail strikes it, is about 2 feet deep
and a rod wide. A few rods above are two deep places
where trout usually lie. A rough fish pole and a line
with a fresh worm on the hook stood by the side of the
trail near the stream and told us this place had been
fished this morning or late the night before. However
with a little coaxing we caught 18 nice trout the largest
weighing 1 pound.
Chet took us downstream a few rods to where it emptied into Mud Lake, and there
on a sandy bar we saw what I never expect to see again. A place several rods
square was literally covered with deer tracks of all sizes; from that of the
smallest doe to that of the largest buck.
After
taking the little lunch we had brought, we started for
camp and arrived 2 hours later.
On our way back we ran upon Whitney seated by the trail, rifle in hand, watching
and had given one shot but without effect. Not long after we reached camp we
heard the report of a rifle and within an hour they came in for Chet to go
and dress a deer which Whitney had shot.
It
had rained a little so that the bushes were wet and the
traveling disagreeable, but everyone was happy. Camp
life with nothing to eat but trout comes to be monotonous.
Chet
(one of the guides) gave us an excellent supper from
the tenderloin. Just at dusk we were all gladly surprised
to see George Brown come rushing up the path followed
by A.J. Green of Montclair NJ. They reported that Snow
and A.A. Webster of Brooklyn were at the head of the
lake waiting for the guide to return for them. They were
determined to come through in a day so left Northville
early in the morning, taking breakfast at Samp Hosleys
(in Wells) and dinner at Dave Sturges. Burr had not yet
arrived so they got Jimmy, Burr’s boy, to lead
them in. At Mill Brook about 2 miles from the lake, they
met Burr. He went on to the lake to buy some coffee and
other supplies and returned the next day. The boys were
all pretty tired and a few stories were told before dropping
off to sleep.
July
6th Wednesday: Rev. Hill and Green went up to the head
of the lake to fish a spring hole. Noyes, Snow Whitney,
and Batcheller went over to Whitney Lake and fished from
the rocks for trout. Greene and Rev. Hill caught but
a few, and those small, but the other party caught the
finest stringer of trout I have ever seen. There were
but 10 of them the three largest weighted 5 ½ pounds.
The rest of our party now numbering 10 stayed around
camp and fished at times in the lake catching a few fine
trout. During the evening games were played and stories
with side splitting effects. Webster in particular is
a capital storyteller.
Sleep
came late but was very refreshing. I forgot to say that
towards evening Chet and I went up to what is called
Big Bay to watch for deer. None appeared, however, they
would undoubtedly have been safe as I had a rifle with
me and had never taken a shot at a deer in all my life.
July
7th Thursday: Allured by the success of the party Webster,
Greene, Brown, and Rev Hill took Burr and fished there
nearly all day. They were not as successful as the other
party, and came back to camp slightly depressed. Greene
never got a bite and but the others got one of two fair
size trout each.
In the afternoon guided by Chet; Snow, Batcheller, Noyes, Robinson and I went
over to Cedar Lake about a mile away. On our way we met Rev. Reeve a Presbyterian
minister from Johnstown. We had met previously at Dave Sturges place and he
had come into Cedar the same day we had come in with John Sturges. Rev. Reeve
was coming over to make a visit but as we were more than half-way to Cedar
he went back with us and took us in his camp in a boat and another owned by
the guides. The trail from our camp is easily followed. A little more than
halfway over it crosses what seems to have been at one time a shallow lake
which now is dry and filled up. The end of the trail strikes a little bay on
the side of what is known as Middle Lake. From here we rowed down the narrows
and through them into the lower largest lake. The scenery around these lakes
is the most beautiful of any I have ever seen in the north woods. Mountains
surround them on all sides and deep bays that make an irregular but very picturesque
outline. The shores rocky but few lily pads grow between them. Several small
islands add to the otherwise exquisite beauty of these watery gems.
Rev.
Reeves camp is on the west shore of the lower lake back
about 6 rods from the shore. It is not pleasantly located,
being on low ground and shut out from a view of the lake
by a small ridge of spruce. Most excellent springs of
water are near it, however, it is but a few steps from
the ridge and it is an excellent lounging place with
a commanding view of the entire lake and lofty mountains
to the north. We did not visit the upper lake but obtained
a glance of it up through a pass that leads to it and
saw in the distance it’s most prominent feature,
a high steep mountain peak known as The Cobble.
The trail from the Cedar to Mud Stream where we fished on Tuesday runs along
the base of this mountain. Rev. Reeve and his guide accompanied us home and
took supper with us. After supper they smoked and told stories until dusk then
left for their camp.
As
our meat was nearly gone Noyes and Jimmy went out in
the evening and got another deer. Batcheller, Webster,
and Chet had been up to the Big Bay in the afternoon
with no better success than I’d had the day before.
This is the anniversary of my wedding. How I’d
like to be at home for a few hours or have them here
to see and enjoy the beautiful scenery I have seen this
day.
July
8th Friday: Whitney and Rev. Hill went with Jimmy (Sturges)
to fish a spring hole about a half a mile below Sampson
Lake. Brown and Batcheller accompanied them as far as
the lake and fished there until they returned. Sampson
is a small lake lying about a half mile south of Whitney
and is considered a good lake for trout. Whitney and
Rev Hill had no luck but Brown and Batcheller caught
a string of fine trout- three of them weighing four pounds.
The
rest of our party, except myself, took Burr and went
over to fish Whitney Lake and returned with a fine show
of trout. Eight of the largest weighed just over 13 pounds.
All the party was in the beast of spirits and jokes played
lively around. Several of the party made a drawing of
the largest trout on white birch bark to carry home with
them as a souvenir. Chet and I remained around camp all
day.
July 9th Saturday: Noyes, Snow and I went over to Whitney and fished for trout
from a raft which they had built the day before , but caught only three , the
largest weighing a pound. A shower threatening drove us to camp. Rev. Hill
and Batcheller had followed the outlet of Pillsbury down to where the outlet
of Whitney joins it and up that to the lake. They were on the shore when we
landed our raft, getting ready to cook some of the small trout they caught
in spite of the threatening shower. They were determined to remain and fish
in the lake.
We
arrived at camp just as the shower came on and were followed
in a few minutes by Webster and Greene, who with Burr,
had been over to the Cedars to Call upon Rev. Reeve and
being invited, had taken dinner with him. Whitney Brown
and Robinson remained around camp. As our meat was getting
low Chet and I went out in the evening and in forty five
minutes were paddling back with a yearling buck in the
boat. Returning to camp we saw another and I fired at
it but did not hit it. A few moments later we heard the
deer back in the bushes giving the peculiar snort that
accompanies their fright.
July
10th Sunday: Webster and Greene desiring to get home
tomorrow night took Jimmy and started for Lake Pleasant
intending to take the morning stage from there to Northville
the following day. It rained some during the night and
was raining when they started, so they must have had
a very disagreeable walk. Rev. Hill gave a reading from
Romans this morning. It was very interesting but not
as good as the one given last Sunday from Mark. As the
weather was somewhat Lowery we spent the day quietly
in camp. We retired early to be ready for the tramp out
of the woods tomorrow- our day for breaking camp.
July 11th Monday: It rained nearly all night. Burr was desirous of carrying
home some meat with him so hunted part of the night staying at French Louie’s
camp after he had finished. He shot at a deer but did not get it. He came down
to our camp early and reported that the team for which we had sent by Jimmy
to carry out our things had not come. We ate an early breakfast and packing
our things sent the guides off with Rev. Hill Brown, Batcheller, Snow, and
Robinson and some baggage; telling the boys to start for Lake Pleasant and
we would follow with the guides on their next trip. We got to French Louie’s
camp about 8:45 AM and in a short time started for the lake leaving the guides
to fix their boats and left our baggage at French Louies camp to be picked
up by the wagon if it should come.
The
weather is still threatening and though it did not rain
I put on my rubber coat and boots and took the lead with
Whitney and Noyes following. We had before us 12 ½ miles
of hard walking so I started at a slow pace. We met the
wagon about a mile toward camp from the Miami Stream.
We took a little rest at that stream and again at Wilcox
Clearing where we found some strawberries to refresh
us. We arrived at Dave Sturges at 2:25 PM. Tired and
hungry and found the rest of the party preceded us only
long enough to get dinner. I spent the afternoon resting.
I bought a pound of spruce gum and 9 ½ pounds
of maple sugar at the “corner grocery”. We
stayed up until 9:00 PM waiting for Dave to come with
our baggage, then concluded that he might have met with
a misfortune, such as breaking down. We retired for the
night, being told by the woman of the house to go into
any room we could find that suited us.
July
12th Tuesday: Trum Lyon had sent a team for us from Northville
and we were determined to start early and take breakfast
at Samp Hosley’s in Wells. Our baggage came during
the night and shortly after 5 AM we were on our way to
Samp’s. We arrived about 7:30 AM to find a good
breakfast waiting for us. At noon we reached Northville
and took dinner at Winnies Hotel where Whitney had left
his trunk when he came into the woods. Robinson left
the party here and took the train for home. The rest
of the party took a long rest in Northville.
Those
including myself who set out from Batchellerville reached
home about 5PM. Tired indeed but agreed this had been
one of our most pleasant camping excursions.
July
8th Friday: Whitney and Rev. Hill went with Jimmy (Sturges)
to fish a spring hole about a half a mile below Sampson
Lake. Brown and Batcheller accompanied them as far as
the lake and fished there until they returned. Sampson
is a small lake lying about a half mile south of Whitney
and is considered a good lake for trout. Whitney and
Rev Hill had no luck but Brown and Batcheller caught
a string of fine trout- three of them weighing four pounds.
The
rest of our party, except myself, took Burr and went
over to fish Whitney Lake and returned with a fine show
of trout. Eight of the largest weighed just over 13 pounds.
All the party was in the beast of spirits and jokes played
lively around. Several of the party made a drawing of
the largest trout on white birch bark to carry home with
them as a souvenir. Chet and I remained around camp all
day.
July
9th Saturday: Noyes, Snow and I went over to Whitney
and fished for trout from a raft which they had built
the day before , but caught only three , the largest
weighing a pound. A shower threatening drove us to camp.
Rev. Hill and Batcheller had followed the outlet of Pillsbury
down to where the outlet of Whitney joins it and up that
to the lake. They were on the shore when we landed our
raft, getting ready to cook some of the small trout they
caught in spite of the threatening shower. They were
determined to remain and fish in the lake.
We
arrived at camp just as the shower came on and were followed
in a few minutes by Webster and Greene, who with Burr,
had been over to the Cedars to Call upon Rev. Reeve and
being invited, had taken dinner with him. Whitney Brown
and Robinson remained around camp. As our meat was getting
low Chet and I went out in the evening and in forty five
minutes were paddling back with a yearling buck in the
boat. Returning to camp we saw another and I fired at
it but did not hit it. A few moments later we heard the
deer back in the bushes giving the peculiar snort that
accompanies their fright.
July
10th Sunday: Webster and Greene desiring to get home
tomorrow night took Jimmy and started for Lake Pleasant
intending to take the morning stage from there to Northville
the following day. It rained some during the night and
was raining when they started, so they must have had
a very disagreeable walk. Rev. Hill gave a reading from
Romans this morning. It was very interesting but not
as good as the one given last Sunday from Mark. As the
weather was somewhat Lowery we spent the day quietly
in camp. We retired early to be ready for the tramp out
of the woods tomorrow- our day for breaking camp.
July 11th Monday: It rained nearly all night. Burr was desirous of carrying
home some meat with him so hunted part of the night staying at French Louie’s
camp after he had finished. He shot at a deer but did not get it. He came down
to our camp early and reported that the team for which we had sent by Jimmy
to carry out our things had not come. We ate an early breakfast and packing
our things sent the guides off with Rev. Hill Brown, Batcheller, Snow, and
Robinson and some baggage; telling the boys to start for Lake Pleasant and
we would follow with the guides on their next trip. We got to French Louie’s
camp about 8:45 AM and in a short time started for the lake leaving the guides
to fix their boats and left our baggage at French Louies camp to be picked
up by the wagon if it should come.
The
weather is still threatening and though it did not rain
I put on my rubber coat and boots and took the lead with
Whitney and Noyes following. We had before us 12 ½ miles
of hard walking so I started at a slow pace. We met the
wagon about a mile toward camp from the Miami Stream.
We took a little rest at that stream and again at Wilcox
Clearing where we found some strawberries to refresh
us. We arrived at Dave Sturges at 2:25 PM. Tired and
hungry and found the rest of the party preceded us only
long enough to get dinner. I spent the afternoon resting.
I bought a pound of spruce gum and 9 ½ pounds
of maple sugar at the “corner grocery”. We
stayed up until 9:00 PM waiting for Dave to come with
our baggage, then concluded that he might have met with
a misfortune, such as breaking down. We retired for the
night, being told by the woman of the house to go into
any room we could find that suited us.
July
12th Tuesday: Trum Lyon had sent a team for us from Northville
and we were determined to start early and take breakfast
at Samp Hosley’s in Wells. Our baggage came during
the night and shortly after 5 AM we were on our way to
Samp’s. We arrived about 7:30 AM to find a good
breakfast waiting for us. At noon we reached Northville
and took dinner at Winnies Hotel where Whitney had left
his trunk when he came into the woods. Robinson left
the party here and took the train for home. The rest
of the party took a long rest in Northville.
Those
including myself who set out from Batchellerville reached
home about 5PM. Tired indeed but agreed this had been
one of our most pleasant camping excursions.
by
Lorraine Decker